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Vitamin A - Retinoid vs Retinol?

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Vitamin A, an essential fat-soluble nutrient, plays a vital role in maintaining healthy skin. While our bodies cannot produce it internally, we can obtain it through the consumption of beta carotene-rich foods or via the topical application of Vitamin A derivatives.


In skincare, the two primary categories of Vitamin A compounds are retinoids (derived from animal products) and carotenoids (derived from plants). In this comprehensive guide, we will delve into the extraordinary benefits of retinoids, their various forms, and introduce the revolutionary Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR).


Extensive research has repeatedly demonstrated the remarkable effects of retinoids on combating signs of skin aging. These compounds facilitate faster skin cell growth and enhance the shedding of outermost cells, leading to a more compact and rejuvenated stratum corneum.


Moreover, retinoids stimulate the skin to produce glycosaminoglycans, which play a vital role in moisturizing the skin and maintaining its hydration levels. One of the key benefits of retinoids lies in their ability to support collagen production and eliminate damaged elastin fibers. Collagen, a crucial protein responsible for skin elasticity, tends to decline with age. By stimulating collagen synthesis, retinoids improve skin firmness and elasticity, leading to a more youthful appearance.
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The Hierarchy of Vitamin A Actives

Retinol is the most popular form of Vitamin A found in over-the-counter (OTC) skincare products. Additionally, Vitamin A esters like Retinyl Palmitate, Retinyl Acetate, and Retinyl Linoleate are commonly used. These derivatives must undergo conversion to retinoic acid to exert their effects on the skin.


3 key factors influence the efficacy of retinol and its derivatives:

  • Conversion Steps: Retinol requires two conversion steps (Retinol > Retinaldehyde > Retinoic Acid), while retinyl palmitate requires three (Retinyl Palmitate > Retinol > Retinaldehyde > Retinoic Acid). The more conversion steps required, the weaker and less potent the retinoid becomes.

  • Stability: Vitamin A derivatives are inherently unstable and degrade quickly when exposed to air and sunlight. This degradation can impact their effectiveness over time.

  • Concentration: Retinol's efficacy is concentration-dependent, with higher concentrations resulting in higher conversion rates to retinoic acid. However, higher concentrations can sometimes lead to increased skin irritation.

Retinoic acids are the gold standard of retinoids and they are only obtainable through prescription. Currently, there are three prescription-only retinoids on the market: Tretinoin, Adapalene and Tazarotene. Undeniably, prescription formulas deliver exceptional results; however, they often come with potential side effects such as skin irritation, redness, and peeling. These side effects can limit their usage for individuals with sensitive skin.


Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a hybrid of both retinol and retinoic acid. HPR acts as a retinoic acid ester, which bypasses the conversion steps and is directly recognized by our skin cells as bioactive retinoic acid. HPR binds directly with retinoid receptors, initiating cellular renewal processes without the need for conversion. This unique feature significantly enhances HPR's efficacy in skin rejuvenation. Additionally, HPR demonstrates improved chemical stability and superior tolerability. Retinoids is unarguably a powerful anti-aging agent but any significant improvement may not been seen after at least 3 months of continuous use. 

Disclaimer: The content above is provided for informational purposes only and it should not be taken as professional medical advice.
Assence Night Cream is a luxurious skincare product designed to enhance your skin's natural repair process while you sleep. Infused with high-performing cosmeceuticals, this night cream incorporates a new derivative of Vitamin A, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, to provide remarkable anti-aging benefits.


Featured Ingredients

  • Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: It is a game-changing retinoid derivative known for its ability to improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of wrinkles, and promote epidermal skin renewal, similar to traditional retinoids, but with potentially less irritation. It works diligently to rejuvenate and revitalize skin complexion druing the night.

  • Nannochloropsis Oculata: An extract contains fatty acids hydrating polysaccharides and antioxidant carotenoids. These unique compositions offer an immediate skin tightening effect, as well as a long-term skin firming benefit.

  • Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract: A marine-derived extract that strengthens the skin barrier function and effectively seals in moisture. It contains sulfated polysaccharides and amino acids that can nurture skin's supporting structure, leading to firmer looking skin.
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